Selvedge Denim Guide
WHATS THE FUSS about SELVEDGE DENIM ?
Firstly let’s get one thing straight........Selvedge Denim is often confused with Raw Denim. THIS IS NOT THE CASE. Raw denim is denim that has not been through a washing process or treatment after making the garment. You will usually find this on most well-known high street brands where the fabric has been woven on projectile looms, generally 60" wide, and produced on a massive scale.
SELVEDGE DENIM is woven on old 28" / 30" shuttle looms, (half the width of the standard projectile loom and thus taking much longer to weave) Using this process, the edge of the fabric is closed to prevent it from fraying or unravelling and has many different coloured lines that run along the outside of the seam. Sometimes you can even identify the brand of jeans by the colours of the selvedge
The Italian mills, such as CANDIANI & BLUE SELVEDGE( BERTO GROUP) make some decent selvedge denim in various weights.
This is our 13.5oz Japanese Selvedge Denim from the Nihon Menpu Mill.
US Denim was at the forefront of the Selvedge Denim Market for many years, with the CONE DENIM MILL from Greensboro, North Carolina in existence since 1891 and especially the WHITE OAK Division servicing LEVIS with a good chunk of their fabric until its demise in early 2018.
In our opinion, Premium Raw Selvedge Denim, although more expensive than your average high street selvedge denim is the best money can buy. It lasts longer and you get better fades, therefore in the long run it becomes cheaper and a much wiser investment.
Woven in Lancashire, this is the only Selvedge Denim producer in the UK.
At the end of the day though it’s all down to the individual’s preference.
And in our experience, the most discerning individuals prefer Joe & Co.